Error Codes on Kenmore Dryers

  TE Errors

        For Kenmore Elite residential dryers with model numbers 79679272900, MFL62512818, 79679278900, 79669272900, and 79669278900, the tE1 and tE2 error codes signify that the unit has suffered a temperature sensing failure, which means that the dryer is unable to ascertain how hot it is. Thus the dryer may potentially under heat and fail to dry properly, or overheat and become a fire hazard. For error codes tE1 and tE2, the Kenmore Elite manual recommends that owners turn the dryer off and call for servicing.

   
PS Error

        The PS error code appears only on electric Kenmore dryers and does not apply to gas dryers. For Kenmore Elite electric dryers with model numbers 79679272900, MFL62512818, 79679278900, 79669272900, and 79669278900, the PS error code indicates that the dryer's power chord is incorrectly connected. The power chord should supply 240 volts of electricity to the dryer. An inadequate electrical supply source is another cause of the PS error code on a Kenmore dryer.


   
AF Error

        The AF error code for Kenmore Elite Oasis dryers with model numbers 11067032601, 11067042601, W10035200, 11067032600, and 11067042600 indicates that the dryer is experiencing an airflow problem. The Kenmore Elite Oasis owner's manual recommends four troubleshooting solutions to an airflow problem: clean the dryer's lint screen, ensure that the exterior exhaust hood connected to the dryer is unblocked, ensure that the vent connecting the dryer to the wall is clear and see that the vent is cleaned professionally.

How to Troubleshoot a Norcold N841

1) Turn on the Norcold refrigerator and ensure that the battery on the vehicle or equipment is working if the refrigerator is not turning on or the error code "A" or "C" appears. An alarm may sound as well. Connect the refrigerator to a working AC/DC power outlet.

2) Close the refrigerator door if the error code "D" appears on the display or the food inside the unit is getting too warm. Turn the control dial to a lower temperature to increase cooling.


3) Adjust the control dial to a warmer setting if items are getting too cold in the refrigerator. Keep the door shut as much as possible for more accurate climate control.


4) Open the propane gas valve completely if the error code "F" appears or the burner does not seem to have ignited. Open the manual shut-off valve fully.


5) Push the refrigerator door closed if there is an audible alarm from the refrigerator. Check the bins, shelves and items inside the refrigerator to ensure items are not keeping the door from closing.


6) Contact Norcold if any other error code or problem occurs with the refrigerator. The issue may require professional repair.

LG Refrigerator Error Codes

 Error Code 0 FF

        Sometimes an LG refrigerator will display an error code of "0 FF." This is not an error code in the normal sense. This message simply indicates that the unit is in "demo mode." On a front display refrigerator, the problem can usually be resolved by pushing the "refrigerator" and "ice plus" buttons simultaneously for 5 to 10 seconds with the refrigerator door open. Top-mounted refrigerators have the same fix but only the light switch needs to be held and only for about 5 seconds.
   

Error Code Er IF

        All of the codes that indicate malfunctions or similar problems will be shown with an "Er" on the digital display. The LG refrigerator "Er IF" error code is the "Icemaker Fan Error" message. As the name suggests, this error code indicates a problem with the fan that controls the unit's ice production. If this problem occurs because of ice buildup, unplugging the unit for 3 to 4 hours and allowing it to thaw may fix the issue. Customer service should be contacted if the problem persists.


Error Code Er FF

        This code is not to be confused with the O FF or demo mode error message. The "Er FF" error code indicates a problem with the unit's freezer fan. The freezer fan controls the temperature in the freezer. The source of this error is most likely ice buildup. As with the Er IF error, allowing the unit to thaw should resolve the issue. Contact customer service if the error code continues to be displayed after having thawed the unit.

   
Error Code Er FS

        The "Er FS," or Freezer Sensor Error, is most likely caused by a short or a cut somewhere in the unit's circuitry. Sometimes unplugging the unit for a few minutes will reset the system and remove the error code. Customer service should be contacted if the problem persists.

   
Error Code Er rS

        A Refrigerator Sensor error, or "Er rS," is another error code that may be caused by a cut or short somewhere. A temporary solution would be to unplug the unit for a few moments while the system is reset. Customer service should be called if the error message persists.
   

Error Code Er ds

        The LG refrigerator will display an "Er ds" error code if it detects a problem with the defrost sensor. Again, this error message probably denotes a cut or short somewhere in the system. Attempting to reset the system by unplugging the unit may fix the problem. If the problem persists, customer service should be contacted.
   

Error Code Er dH

        The "Er dH," also known as the Defrost Heater Error message, is displayed when the unit fails to reach 46º F within 2 hours of beginning its defrost cycle. This may be an indication of the defrost heater having broken or the temperature fuse having been pulled out of its slot. Contact customer service if the problem persists after having attempted a system reset.
   

Error Code Er CF

        The unit will receive signals from the BLDC fan motor in the freezer compartment during normal operation. If more than 65 seconds pass without a signal from the fan motor, an "Er CF" error message will be displayed. The Cooling Motor Error is usually an indication of a faulty fan motor or loose leads. Customer service should be contacted immediately.
   

Error Code Er CO

        The LG refrigerator may display a Communications Error message ("Er CO") in the event of a short or other malfunction associated with communication between the main circuit board and the display. While attempting a system reset is an option, customer service will most likely need to be contacted in order to provide a permanent solution.

Maytag Range Error Codes

    Identification

        Error codes always appear on the LCD screen of the range. Depending on the model, the code will blink, remain still on the screen or be accompanied by loud beeps until you press a button or disconnect power from the range.

    Types

        Each code is known as a fault code and begins with an "F" followed by a corresponding number. The numbers range from "0" to "9" on the display.

       
    Effects

        Codes "F0," "F1," "F5," "F6," "F7," "F8" and "F9" are all various errors with the Maytag electronic range control, or ERC. The errors are various faults with the ERC and a replacement part is needed for the range.


    Prevention/Solution

        Errors for "F2," "F3" and "F4" have to do with the oven temperature sensor. Check the plug for the sensor, and if the problem persists, replace the sensor with a new one. Use your model number to find the proper sensor.
   
Considerations

        If the range is fairly new and the parts malfunction, you should check your warranty to see whether the repair is covered. You can use the Maytag customer service website to call or email the company.

Bottom Heating Element in the Oven Is Not Working

   
Troubleshoot

        Decide whether the element is heating slightly or not heating at all. Turn the oven on and waiting five minutes. Put a hand about 2 inches over the element. If the element is giving off no heat at all, the element is likely broken. If it gives off some heat, but not adequate heat, it may be a problem with connections.
   


Heat, But No Light

        If an element gives off some heat, but not enough to glow red, then there is likely no problem with the element itself. The difficulty may be as simple as an element that is not plugged in fully. After the oven cools, try firmly pushing it into place. However, such problems are often caused by a broken wire inside the connecting device or a loose bracket. These repairs usually require a serviceman.
   


No Heat

        If an element gives off no heat whatsoever, it is likely that the element has burned out. Examine the element carefully. Often sugary or fatty foods boiling over onto the element cause it to burn through. Oven cleaner may also burn through an element. Elements may fail with age or faulty construction. You can easily purchase a new element at an appliance store or online and complete the replacement yourself.

Turntable of a Microwave not rotating

1) Inspect the turntable base wheels and guides. If they are gummed up with food or other gunk, they will not turn and the turntable will not rotate. Clean as needed.


2) Remove the microwave case by unscrewing the casing screws with your screwdriver. Locate the turntable motor which will be directly beneath the oven floor.


3) Inspect the belt that connects the motor to the rotating table. If the belt is broken, replace it.


4) Touch the probes of a continuity tester to the electrical contacts on the motor. If the tester lights up, the motor windings are good, which means the motor is functional. If there is no light, the motor needs to be replaced.


5) Check the wires leading from the cord to the motor itself. Look for any breaks in the wire, or a wire that has been pulled off of any electrical connection. Any connection that has been compromised can be soldered back into place, but if the cord is damaged at all, it needs to be replaced.


6) Attempt to spin the motor by hand if the continuity is good and the belt is in place. It should spin freely, but if it is difficult or doesn't move at all, you will need to lubricate the bearing. Either apply spray or bearing lube to the motor axles to solve this problem, and allow the motor to spin freely once again.

How to Fix a Dishwasher That's Not Cleaning Properly

1) Consult the owner's manual of your model of dishwasher to see if it has a food debris trap or an automatic solid waste disposer. Remove any trap filters and rinse out debris under running water. Wipe the vacated trap area with a dampened soft sponge before returning the filter.


2) Dip an old toothbrush in a small bowl filled with pure lemon juice. Press firmly as you brush the lemon juice onto the heating element and all the water jet nozzles in a circular motion. Apply a second coat of lemon juice and let it soak in for five minutes.


3) Check the temperature of the water being supplied to the nearest sink faucet by placing the kitchen thermometer into a tall glass and filling it with the hottest water from the tap. Turn up the hot water heater if the water is not at least 120 degrees.


4) Pour white vinegar into the dishwasher and secure the kitchen thermometer on the top rack. Check the manual to find out if your dishwasher model has a pre-heating cycle that can be turned on. Close the dishwasher door and set the dishwasher to run a wash cycle.


5) Stop the dishwasher after it has been in the wash cycle for five minutes and open the door to check the temperature of the thermometer. A working dishwasher should be capable of heating water to above 140 degrees to clean its load.


6) Load both racks with dirty dishes making sure that spray jets are not obstructed. Swing the arm of the sprayer to be certain that it rotates freely.


7) Add the soap and rinse agent dose prescribed by the manufacturer and run another wash cycle to determine the level improvement.

How to Repair a Dryer That Is Not Heating

   1) Unplug the dryer from the wall.
   
   2) Slip the putty knife between the top of the front panel and the top, releasing the clips holding the top in place. Tilt the top back.

    3) Remove the front panel, drum and drive belt.
   
    4) Referring to your service manual or to the wiring diagram found on the inside of the dryer's case, locate all the critical parts: thermal fuse, thermal cut-out, cycling-thermostat, high-limit thermostat and the heating element terminals.
   
    5) Set your DMM for the 200-Ohm range; remove one conductor from the thermal fuse and thermal cut-out. Take a continuity reading through them by placing the test probes across them. If either one reads as an open circuit, replace it.
   
    6) Remove one of the wires from the heating element, take a resistance reading and compare it to the reading indicated on the schematic. Any significant variation here indicates a bad element and you need to replace it.

Troubleshooting a Gas-Heated Clothes Dryer
   
    7) Unplug and open the dryer as indicated in the steps above.
   
    8) Check all thermostats, thermal fuses and thermal cut-outs as you did for the electrically heated dryer.
   
    9) Plug the dryer in, set on the heat cycle, jumper out the door safety switch using one of the alligator test leads and take a voltage reading across the igniter's terminals. The DMM should read line voltage of 120 volts. Another voltage reading here indicates a bad igniter.
   
    10) Unplug the dryer, remove one wire from the gas solenoid valve coil and take a resistance reading. A good coil will read approximately 150 Ohms. A significantly higher or lower reading indicates a bad coil and you need to replace it.
   
    11) Check to see if the gas valve is opening. Jumper out the door safety switch, set to a high heat range and plug the dryer in. Shortly after the igniter starts to glow, you should hear a click indicating that the gas valve has opened.
   
    12) Check the functioning of the flame sensor. Jumper out the door safety switch, set to a high heat range and plug the dryer in. If the igniter continues to glow after 12 to 15 seconds without the valve opening and the gas flowing, you have a bad flame sensor.

How to Stop Washing Machine Noise

1) Check for drum bearing failure if your washing machine is noisy on the spin cycle. Drum bearing failure is common when the bearing seals start allowing water to enter. You can take the belt off and spin the drum by hand, and if the drum rumbles, replace the bearings.


2) Turn the drum by hand and listen for loud noises. If the drum itself is split or the 'spider' is corroded, broken or has come apart from the back of the drum it will create a loud noise on every turn of the drum. (When the bearings have gone bad, the noise is constant the entire time the drum is spinning.)


3) Look for obvious dents and creases in the drum or look for coins or small objects stuck inside the tub underneath the drum when a horrendous noise is made while clothes are in the tub.


4) Clear the water pump from obstructions like coins or small objects when a noise occurs while the washing machine is emptying water.


5) Remove the sump hose and look for bra wires if you hear a light scraping noise when the drum is turned by hand. You can also check to make sure a wire isn't poking out of one of the holes in the drum. In this case, you can pull the wire out easily with pliers.


6) Take the belt off and run the motor alone if you hear a high pitched squealing noise to check for motor bearing damage or wear. If you still hear the noise without the belt, it's the motor bearing.

How to Trigger the Defrost Cycle on a Jenn-Air Fridge

1) Remove all food from the refrigerator and freezer. If possible, store it in a secondary refrigerator or a cooler to keep it cool until the refrigerator is back on and sufficiently cool to prevent spoilage.


2) Access the control panel. The location of the control panel varies between models, but it is usually behind the top grill of the refrigerator or on the front of the water and ice dispenser. To turn the refrigerator off, press the on/off button and hold it for three seconds. The control panel's display will light up. This indicates that the refrigerator is off.


3) Unplug the refrigerator to disconnect the power source. Open both doors to allow air to circulate while any frost accumulation melts. Once it has melted, use a towel to absorb excess liquid. Use a mild cleaner to wipe out the interior of the refrigerator and freezer.


4) Plug it back in and turn the refrigerator and freezer back on by pressing the on/off button on the control panel. The LED light will turn off, indicating that the refrigerator is back in cooling mode. Wait until the refrigerator has cooled to put food back into the refrigerator and freezer. Optimal temperatures should be between 33 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit in the refrigerator, and minus 5 to 5 degrees Fahrenheit in the freezer.

How to Troubleshoot Frost Free Refrigerators

1) Check the plug, outlet and circuit breaker, if the refrigerator does not operate. Make sure the plug has not been removed from the outlet. Reset the circuit breaker if it has been tripped.


2) Make sure the compressor is running. The compressor is located at the bottom of the back of the refrigerator. You should hear it turning on and off as it adjusts to the cooling needs of the refrigerator. if you hear no noise, or the compressor does not vibrate or turn on, this is most likely the problem. Call a repair man to diagnose the specific compressor problem. If it is running, proceed.


3) Check the temperature control. The temperature control, usually located at the top of the back of the refrigerator compartment, can be easily jostled, causing the refrigerator to become too warm or cool. If you’ve recently added a lot of food to the frost-free refrigerator, the refrigerator may be adjusting to properly cool the food. Wait a few hours for it to adjust or turn the temperature control dial to decrease the temperature. If the temperature in your home is warmer than usual, decrease the temperature in the refrigerator.


4) Check the refrigerator door gasket. If there is moisture on the walls of the refrigerator, if the temperature is too warm or the door will not close properly, the gasket may not be forming a seal. Clean the gasket of any dirt or debris to help it make a stronger seal. Make sure the door is not being opened too frequently or left open. If this does not help, the gasket may need to be replaced. Check the door gasket to make sure it’s sealing properly. If not, have it replaced.


5) Check the evaporator system’s cooling coil. This may be the problem if the refrigerator does not cool at all. Open the freezer door, unscrew the back panel with the screwdriver and examine the coils behind it for excessive frost buildup. Frost buildup can prevent air circulation and cooling to the rest of the refrigerator. Remove items from the freezer and refrigerator and defrost it completely. Call a qualified repair person if the problem occurs again as you may have a problem with the defrost timer or thermostat that is preventing the coil from defrosting itself.


6) Check the evaporator fan. This is located behind the back freezer panel and circulates air throughout the refrigerator. Make sure it is running whenever the condenser is running. If the motor in the fan is running slowly or making squeaking noises, air is not being properly circulated. Call a professional to repair or replace the fan.


7) Inspect the condenser and condenser fan. The condenser fan is the fan on the back of the unit near the compressor that removes hot air from the refrigerator. Make sure it is running at full speed whenever the compressor is running. Check it for dirt and dust buildup. Clean it with a condenser coil brush several times a year to keep the refrigerator properly cooling. If the condenser fan is not running, call a professional for service.

How to Unlock the Door of a Duet Front Loader Washer

Instructions

    Add a Garment
        1 Check to see if the "Add a Garment" light is lit on the Duet's display. The light will only be on during the first eight minutes of a washer cycle, when the function is usable.

        2 Press the "Pause/Cancel" button once to pause the washing cycle and unlock the door.

        3 Press the "Pause/Cancel" button twice to cancel the wash cycle if the "Add a Garment" light is not illuminated. Wait for the water to drain. The door unlocks once enough water has drained to enable you to safely open the washer door.

    Manual Unlock
        4 Unplug the washing machine.

        5 Remove the three screws securing the lower toe panel to the washing machine. The lower toe panel is the small rectangular panel underneath the washer's front door. Pull the panel off the washer once the three screws are removed.

        6 Reach up into the front panel of the washer. Feel for the teardrop-shaped tab in the washer's door latch assembly.

        7 Pull down on the tab until you hear a click. The click is the sound of the door unlocking.

How to drain Kenmore washers manually

Instructions

        1 Pull the washer away from the wall until you have enough room to access the back panel of the machine.

        2 Place the bucket behind the washer next to the drain hose.

       
         3 Unhook the drain hose from the drainpipe. Lower the end of the drain hose to the bottom of the bucket. Gravity causes the water to run from the washer into the bucket. You may need to tilt the bucket slightly sideways to get the drain hose low enough to get the water flowing.
       
        4 Squeeze the locking pin on the end of the drain hose that is connected to the back of the washer if you will be draining the water into a floor drain. Pull the hose away from the washer to disconnect it. The water will pour out as soon as the hose is disconnected.

Error codes on Kenmore washers

    FH Error Code

        When a front-loading Kenmore residential washer displays the "FH" error code, the machine is experiencing a water-inlet problem. A water-inlet problem is the result of the washer receiving too little water to operate. The Kenmore owner's manual suggests five home remedies for this problem: Check that the water faucets connected to the washer are turned on; that the inlet screens in the washer's connection hose are not clogged; that the hose is not kinked; and that the hose is not frozen. If none of these problems are present, turn off the washer, unplug it, plug it back in, and restart the machine.

    FL Error Code

        The "FL" error code on a top-loading Kenmore residential washer indicates that the machine has over filled. When a residential Kenmore washer is overfull, it will beep every 10 seconds. The pump will cycle on and off every 30 seconds in an attempt to rectify the problem. To stop the pump or restart the machine, either disengage and then re-engage the power source to the washer, or push the overfill reset switch. If water continues to enter the machines after the "FL" error has appeared, shut off the inlet flow faucet or the machine will overflow.

    F02 Error Code

        The "F02" error code on a front-loading Kenmore residential washer indicates that the machine is experiencing a drainage problem. Home-remedy solutions for this error code, as suggested by the Kenmore manual, are similar to those for the "FH" error code: Insure that the drainage hose is not kinked, frozen, or clogged. If none of these problems are present, check that the hose is less than 96 inches, or 8 feet, above the floor. A hose more than eight feel from the floor will not drain properly.