How to Repair Kenmore Elite Oasis Dryer Error Codes

1) Press and hold the "Start" button to restart the dryer cycle if the "PF" (power failure) error code appears. This code often appears when a cycle is interrupted before it completes. You may also check the breaker or household fuse, and ensure the machine has not come unplugged.


2) Press "Stop" when the "AF" code appears. The timer will reappear on the display. The "AF" code appears when there is low airflow. To reduce the likeliness the code appears on the next cycle, remove the lint screen and clean the lint from it. Also check to make sure the vent pipe that extends from the dryer to outside the home is clear.


3) Call 1-800-4-MY-HOME to contact Sears Service if any error code that starts with a "F" appears on the display. These are service codes that require electrical adjustments.

Kenmore front loading dryers beeping

End of Cycle

        It’s normal for certain Kenmore front-load dryers to beep when a drying cycle ends. The noise is to let you know that clothes are dry and ready to be removed. Some models will beep once, others will beep several times in a series, and some will beep at regular intervals to confirm or remind you that a cycle is over. Open the washer’s door to stop it from beeping or press “Pause” or “Stop” on the dryer’s control panel to silence the dryer until you’re ready to empty it.
  
Diagnostic Test

        Running a diagnostic test could cause a Kenmore front-load dryer to beep continuously during the test or if it gets stuck in diagnostic mode. In this mode, a dryer will beep every time you make a change to the dryer’s state, such as opening and closing the door, choosing a cycle setting or pressing “Start.” Stop the diagnostic test by holding down both the “Pause/Cancel” and “Select” buttons at the same time for at least six seconds to reset the dryer to normal function. If this doesn’t reset the dryer, unplug its power cord from the electrical outlet and wait one minute before plugging it back in. Cutting its power source should reset the dryer and stop it from beeping.

    
Error Code Alert

        An error code alert could make a Kenmore front-load dryer beep nonstop. On certain dryers that don’t have digital displays, the beep is intended to inform you of a problem; the display lights on the machine will blink in series to relay an error code so you can identify and fix the issue. To determine the problem, count the number of times the Drying, Cool Down, Wrinkle Rid and Clean Lint Filter lights flash to get the first number of the two-digit error code. Then, count the number of flashes made by the Start indicator light to get the second number. Once you have the error code, look it up in your dryer’s manual or contact Kenmore for additional information.
  

Failed Temperature Sensor

        Kenmore dryers will beep incessantly when the temperature sensor or thermistor fails. Review the manual for your dryer to confirm that your dryer has this component and to determine its location. Accessing the sensor usually requires that you remove the front lower panel of your dryer. Once the panel is removed, you can test the sensor’s voltage with a multimeter or contact Kenmore to have a technician test it for you. The sensor should provide a reading of 50,000 ohms at room temperature. If the voltage is lower, it means the sensor is bad and must be replaced.

How to Troubleshoot Briggs & Stratton Black Smoke

1) Remove the screw on the top of the air filter canister on the side of the Briggs & Stratton with the engine turned off. The five-sided canister sits directly over the carburetor on the right-hand side of the engine, when looking at the Briggs & Stratton from the rear.


2) Lift off the canister containing the air filter as well as the long mounting screw that holds it over the carburetor.

3) Twist the idle mixture screw on the carburetor clockwise until the screw head is just above the rubber seal on the carburetor. The screw is located inside the carburetor as you look down into the part.


4) Rotate the screw counterclockwise one complete turn with the screwdriver and another half turn.


5) Remove the cover from the metal canister to expose the air filter. If your engine uses a disposable paper filter, replace it with a new one. If you have a sponge-like filter, continue troubleshooting.


6) Clean the air filter with water and liquid soap, scrubbing the bottom of the filter where dirt and grass clippings accumulate. Over time, the filter can become clogged, causing the engine to smoke.


7) Squeeze excess water from the filter. Allow it to dry. Pour 1 tbsp. of engine oil on the filter. Squeeze out the excess oil.


8) Replace the filter in the canister and reattach over the carburetor using the screw removed in step 1.


9) Start the engine normally and run at idle speed for a few minutes to determine whether the engine is still smoking. If the smoke persists, continue troubleshooting.

10) Unscrew the oil cap on the base of the engine and turn the Briggs & Stratton on its side to catch some of the oil on an old rag. Run your finger over the oil. Good engine oil is a caramel color. If the oil is black or feels coarse and gritty, drain the old oil from the engine by turning the Briggs & Stratton upside down.



11) Fill the engine crankcase with fresh motor oil and replace the cap before testing the engine. Use an oil weight and quantity recommended for your particular engine. The recommendation is printed on the side of the Briggs & Stratton.

Troubleshooting Steps for Craftsman Lawn Mower Oil Leak

    External Inspection

        An external defect can be the source of an oil leak on a Craftsman lawn mower. You could have a crack in the crankcase, which houses the oil prior to starting your engine. If is oil anywhere on the crankcase, wipe it clean and closely inspect the spot for a crack. You should also check any places where oil enters or exits the mower such as the oil drain holes and fill port. Larger Craftsman mowers and lawn tractors might also be equipped with oil filters. Ensure that they are closed tight and that any residual oil is wiped off of them. Once all external oil spots are cleaned and the physical check is done, run the mower for five minutes and then check again for leaks.
   

Overflow

        Craftsman riding mowers and lawn tractors have slope recommendations for operation. These mowers should typically not be operated on a grade steeper than 15 degrees. If you operate your Craftsman on these slopes, you run the risk of oil flowing from the crankcase and into the combustion chamber. Any unlit oil will spill into the exhaust and muffler areas, causing smoke during combustion. For Craftsman push and walk-behind mowers, be careful when storing or servicing your mower not to tilt the engine in the wrong direction. If you drain your oil through the oil fill port on the engine, ensure the air filter is pointing up when you tilt the engine or oil can spill into the combustion chamber.

       
   
Breather System
        Briggs and Stratton engines on the larger push mowers and riding mowers are equipped with a breather system that aids in cooling the engine. The breather system is typically composed of a breather tube that allows air and oil to pass over the combustion section to cool and transfer heat. Oil is returned to the crankcase after passing through it. If the breather system is damaged or a part of it malfunctions, oil can back flow into the tube, clogging the air filter. The clogged filter can create pressure inside the combustion chamber and blow the gasket seals, allowing oil in.
   

Maintenance

        To help prevent oil leaks, follow the recommended maintenance schedule as shown on the Briggs and Stratton engine owner’s manual. Check the oil before every use to ensure it isn’t filled beyond capacity. Also change the oil on schedule, which is usually after 25 to 50 hours of operation or every season. Oil has natural contaminants that, over time, can clog filters and engine plumbing. Dirty oil also loses cooling and lubrication properties, which can add up to an overheated engine.

How to Troubleshoot a Craftsman Push Mower That Won't Start

1) Check for any leaks under the Craftsman push mower. Any leaking from the lines indicates a line problem. If there is oil or gas under the motor itself, it likely is a motor problem.
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2) Change the spark plug if the mower has no leaks. Change it with the recommended spark plug in the manual. Craftsman recommends changing the spark plugs every year.


3) Change the air filter for better air flow. Craftsman also recommends changing the air filter every year. Locate the filter and replace it with one recommended in the manual.


4) Replace the line filter. A clogged filter drastically decreases the mower's engine production.


5) Check the blade to make sure that the arbor, to which the blade connects, is not blocked. This could prevent the mower from starting.

Kenmore Washer Spin Problems

    Lid Switch

        The lid switch closes the electrical circuit so that the different components in the Kenmore washer will operate correctly. When the switch is defective, it could prevent the washer from spinning. First look at the actuator located under the Kenmore washer lid. It is a plastic piece that protrudes out and engages the switch when the lid is closed. If it is broken or damaged it is not engaging the switch and must be replaced.

        The switch itself can be quickly diagnosed using a regular drinking straw. Insert the straw into the hole that the actuator sets in when the lid is closed. You should here a clicking sound when you move the straw in and out of the switch. If you do not hear the sound, the switch is defective and needs to be replaced.
   


Water Level Switch

        The water level switch senses the level of the water in the tub. Most often when this switch is defective, the tub will not fill or overfill. Since the problem is the Kenmore washer not spinning, the switch could be defective and not allowing the water level to advance. You will need to remove the screws that hold the control panel to the top of the Kenmore washer and set the control panel into its service position.

        Follow the clear tube from the water level switch inside the control panel to the tub. Look for cracks and holes in the tube that will prevent the switch from operating correctly. Replace the air tube if necessary. To test the switch, set a volt-ohm meter to the RX1 scale. Remove the three wires from the switch terminals and test them two at a time with the volt-ohm meter. You should get readings of zero resistance on one pair while receiving resistance readings for the other two pairs. If you do not get theses readings the water level switch should be replaced.
  


 Drive Coupler or Drive Belt

        Kenmore washer spin problems could be the result of a defective drive belt or direct drive coupler. On washers that use a drive belt, you need to access the rear of the washer and inspect the belt. Look for a broken belt, frays or cracks, and also make sure that the belt is tight.

        Some Kenmore washers are direct drive and use a coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler is located between the top of the motor and the gear case. You will need to remove the water pump and remove the motor from the base of the washer. The coupler consists of three pieces and should show no signs of wear. If one piece is defective the entire coupler assembly will need to be replaced.

Kenmore Elite Washer Won't Start

1) Push the washer door firmly shut and engage the "Start/Pause" button. A Kenmore Elite washer won't start unless the door is firmly closed. Some models require that the "Start/Pause" button be held down to engage the washer while other models need you to pull out the cycle selection dial. Make sure that the washer is set to perform a wash cycle.


2) Reduce the size of the load. If you are washing towels, duvets, blankets or other large items, the washer may not be able to start due to the weight of the materials. Ensure that there is enough room inside the washer for the load to tumble and move as the drum spins.

3) Confirm that the washer's power cable is plugged directly into a grounded three-prong electrical outlet. Vibrations caused by the washer during use can jostle power cables loose from the outlet. Check that the outlet is operational by plugging another appliance into it. Check your fuse box if the outlet appears to be inactive.


4) Verify that the inlet valve screens are allowing water to flow into the washer. Clogged screens can prevent the washer from drawing water from the mains supply. The inlet valve screens can be gently cleaned with a cloth after shutting off the water and unscrewing the input pipes from the back of the washer. The screens are located just inside where the water pipes meet the washer.


5) Ensure that your Kenmore Elite washer has access to water. Turn the water shut-off valves, most commonly located at the wall, clockwise to their furthest extent or turn the lever to the "Open" position. Examine the water pipes connected to the washer and straighten out any kinked or twisted sections.


6) Contact Kenmore if the problem persists.

Dryer Not Drying

1) Make sure you aren't overloading your dryer. Try drying a load about half the size of your typical load and see if it dries. Often, problems arise when the dryer is too full.


2) Make sure the dryer is getting power. If your dryer won't even turn on, there is likely a problem with the power. Make sure the dryer is securely plugged into the electrical outlet. Check your breakers or fuses to make sure a breaker hasn't flipped or a fuse hasn't blown. Climb behind the dryer and use a screwdriver to remove the screws holding the plug access plate in place. Make sure the plug is properly attached to the dryer and wires are tightly fastened by the screws. Look for any signs of burning or wear on the plug itself. If you see signs of wear on the plug, replace it with a new one.


3) Clean out the lint tray and dryer vent. A clogged lint tray or dryer vent can decrease your Frigidaire's ability to effectively dry clothes. Remove the lint tray and clean out any lint. Move around to the back of the dryer and disconnect the dryer vent from the exhaust port on the dryer. Disconnect the other end from the exhaust port on the wall. Shake out any lint from the vent. Use a can of compressed air to blow the vent clean. Do the same for the exhaust port leading out of the house.


4) Disassemble your Frigidaire dryer to examine the other components. Slide a putty knife between the top panel and front panel, and slide it toward the center of the dryer to disconnect the retaining clips on the top panel. Lift the top panel up. Move the knife along the inside edges of the front panel, and lift the front panel up and off of the dryer. Disconnect the door switch wires and slide the front panel to the side. Disconnect the drum belt from the motor pulley, and raise the back end of the drum. Slide the drum forward and out of the dryer.


5) Replace the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to blow if your dryer gets too hot. It's located in the back right corner of the dryer, attached to heating element housing, and looks like a round piece of plastic with two wires coming out of the ends. Disconnect the wires and remove the screw holding the fuse in place. Screw a new fuse into place and reconnect the wires.


6) Replace the thermostat. The thermostat is a round piece of metal and plastic, located next to the thermal fuse. It regulates the temperature of your Frigidaire dryer. Disconnect the wires leading to the thermostat and remove the screws holding it in place. Screw a new thermostat in place and reconnect the wires.


7) Replace the heating element. The heating element is the internal component that actually generates heat within your dryer. Look at the element coils and see if any are broken. If none are broken, the element is fine. If one is, it must be replaced. Remove the thermal fuse and thermostat from the outside of the heating element housing. Disconnect the wires running to the heating element. Remove the screws holding the heating element and housing in place. Lift the housing out of the dryer. Install a new heating element and housing, and screw it into place. Reconnect the wires and reattach the thermal fuse and thermostat.

How to Diagnose Refrigerator Problems

1) If the fridge won't run, first check the power cord, and the reset the circuit breaker.


2) Check for thermostat problems. It could be off or won't cool properly (too warm, too cold). If it can't be fixed with a simple adjustment, call a professional.


3) Check for coil problems. The compressor can overheat due to dust buildup on condenser coils. If so, vacuum the coils. If there's ice buildup on evaporator coils due to bad defrost heater, call a professional. If there's a squealing sound inside the refrigerator, it's like a failing evaporator-coil fan. If so, call a professional.


4) If there's frost buildup in the freezer, this is due to a bad defrost heater, in which case you should call a professional.


5) Realign the water tube if it's out of position. It could cause problems with the ice maker.


6) Replace any worn-out gaskets.